VYN

THT The Very Best of Scandinavian Food 2/5

3.5 Hours, 15 Plates

VYN is very nearly a corner of heaven, set between Sweden and Denmark. Just the atmosphere it sits in is enough to give you a sense of calm. Daniel Berlin runs not only an accomplished restaurant here but also a private hotel with 15 rooms. I am very glad I had the chance to stay and experience all three meals of the day. To start with breakfast, the eggs are on another level entirely. Eating the high-quality produce that comes from Sweden and Denmark is a great pleasure even in its plainest form. The breads from the nearby bakery and the Danish butter carry the experience higher still. At lunch, the cod served with a mussel sauce went down very well after the long journey. The mascarpone cream, rhubarb and vanilla ice cream offered as dessert made a balanced and elegant close. Even if the weather is cold I would certainly recommend sitting in their greenhouses and drinking lemonade; inside it is quite warm and pleasant. With the outdoor exercise area, the shower systems developed for NASA and the bond they have built with nature, they manage to surprise you in every detail. A short walk during the day takes you to a small village and down to the seashore. At dinner the atmosphere changes completely. The door into the dining room is a piece of design in its own right. The dining area, wrapped in large windows, offers a panoramic sunset view. Fruit and meat are paired frequently on the menu. The fish and pheasant courses were demanding in places, but in terms of flavour they were very accomplished. My own favourite was the savoury finish made with milk-fed lamb. I think Scandinavia is one of the most accomplished regions in the world when it comes to non-alcoholic drink pairings, and choosing that option here was absolutely the right decision. For the desserts you move through to the lounge area. Resting in a comfortable setting, you can also witness the kitchen closing down. Because of where it is, it is not a place I could visit often, but I will remember VYN for a long time for its warm atmosphere and its original approach.