Süreyya Lokanta

Süreyya has a story every bit as lovely as its food, and with its original plates it is an address that will keep people talking for a long while. The lokanta takes its name from Süreyya Ağaoğlu, Türkiye's first woman lawyer.

Around a hundred years ago, Süreyya Hanım sat down on her own at a lokanta in Ankara. At the time a woman going to a lokanta alone was frowned upon by society, and word of it reached Atatürk. Atatürk then went back to the lokanta together with Süreyya Hanım, taking a firm stand against that attitude. This graceful but powerful story, which began with one woman's courage, is what inspired Süreyya Lokanta. When you walk in, seeing the photographs of women who were the first to do what they did on the wall to your left is a lovely detail, and it shows how deeply that story has been taken to heart.

Now to the food…

What you find here is essentially modern readings of traditional flavours. The mushroom and potato plates may look plain, but in terms of taste they are among the best examples I have eaten to date. My own favourite was the crisp duck between sheets of baklava pastry. It is served as a hot starter, but I would say it was more ambitious than even the main courses.

What to Order

• Girit Ezmesi
• Mardin Bulgurlu Karides Tabule
• Kömür Ateşinde İstiridye Mantarı
• Karamelize Soğanlı Köy Patatesi
• Yaprak Ciğer
• Baklava Yufkasında Kızarmış Ördek