Middle Child

With an atmosphere, a menu and a way of presenting its dishes that are all its own, Middle Child has caught the attention of a great many people besides me, and it is one of the addresses you really should call at on a visit to Dubai. Chef Lynn Hazim, the middle child of her family, turned to the kitchen after a career at Google, and she has worked genuine wonders here. Every plate I tried was as accomplished as the last. The celery and date salad in particular was a strikingly original thing to eat. The club sandwich and the bolognese, meanwhile, stand clearly apart from any I have eaten before. In the banoffee pie served to close things out, I very much liked the balance of salt in the pastry at the base. There is also a small area where you can buy the things you have enjoyed, and I had the chance to try their zahter.

What to Order

• Eggplant Caponata
• Celery & Date Salad
• Club Sandwich
• Papardelle Bolognese
• Banoffee Pie
• Zaatar