Gastronaut Guide

Rehberin Notları

Modernising Anatolian cooking is not something everyone can manage. Keeping it up steadily, and having a new surprise ready on every visit, is much harder still. That balance is exactly what makes Herise İstanbul special. Herise lets you feel not only Anatolia's food culture but its hospitality at the highest level, and with its minimal yet elegant atmosphere it is one of my favourite restaurants in İstanbul. You do not simply eat well here, you have an experience that feels good from beginning to end. The menu changes on every visit, yet Herise's understanding of cooking never does. Seasonality, the quality of the produce and a respect for Anatolia make themselves felt in every plate. The experience opens plainly but strongly, with a small sourdough pide, carefully chosen cheese and clarified butter. The Nohut Vardabiti that follows offers a different texture and aroma in every mouthful, with its fermented sucuk, crisp simit and touch of tahini. The seasonal compote beside it turns out to be an unexpected but successful companion to the plate. Köz Patlıcanlı Köfte, one of the menu's classics, is served with a garlicky tomato sauce and smoked aubergine, while the Geremez that comes with it stands out as a simple but characterful plate, built on the harmony of Bergama tulum cheese, kapya pepper and strained yoghurt. The keşkek that gives Herise its name is still, for me, the star of the menu. Made with beef neck, marrow stock and wheat, this reading carries one of Anatolia's most deep-rooted dishes into the present without giving up any of its elegance. The smell of the olive oil drizzled over it as it is served is one of the unforgettable moments of the experience. Among the desserts, the Zerde made with saffron and rose water offers a light close, while the Kırık Helvası served with a hibiscus sauce brings a modern reading to the classic un helvası. The biscuit offered at the end of the meal as a parting gift is an elegant detail that reflects Herise's hospitality. Another nice touch is that you can take the things you liked away with you, packed with the same care as they are served. The keşkek in particular is delivered to every part of İstanbul. What I love most about Herise is that, for all the changing menus, it has never lost its warmth or its identity. It does not merely reinterpret Anatolian cooking, it carries it into the present and keeps it alive. My thanks to Asude Akınlı Boğatır, Bahadır Boğatır and the whole Herise team for making every visit better than the last.

What to Order

Tasting Menu