Frantzén

THT The Very Best of Scandinavian Food 1/5

5 Hours, 16 Plates

Frantzén, where preparation runs for 21 hours of the day alongside the lunch and dinner services, is one of the most disciplined kitchens in the world of gastronomy. There is a team here doing its work with real passion. There is nothing to be said about the flavours, but the quality of the service and the choreography of the presentations have played an enormous part in their journey towards a third Michelin star. The five-hour experience, which unfolds across two floors of the three-storey building, was genuinely unforgettable. The top floor is a private space where they try out new ideas, so sadly it cannot be visited. The savoury and sweet amuse bouches are served in the lounge, and then you move through to the open kitchen for the hot dishes and the mains. Learning that those two-bite openers take two days to prepare brings a moment of disbelief. The ingredients that will be used in the meal are presented in a special cabinet before the experience begins. Throughout the menu there is a very balanced structure that speaks to every taste the tongue can register. The chawanmushi with its high umami intensity, the caviar French toast served with horseradish and the masterful langoustine presented with Nishiki rice were the standout plates of the meal. It was here that I first had the chance to try a pairing menu in which alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are offered together. In short, Frantzén stays loyal to its own cooking techniques and manages to deliver service at the highest level without compromising on flavour. It is one of those restaurants where the experience went beyond what I had expected.